Many
of the new, top‑of‑the‑line
fixtures are rated higher and include higher‑powered
halogen lights. They demand more wattage than
generic lights. Typically, they include 35‑50
watts for spots and floods, and 20‑35
watts for path lights. Be sure to calculate
the maximum wattage use prior to installing.
I
like to install low‑voltage lighting
systems using the hub method, with a good
quality transformer that allows an upgrade
in voltages. This way I can test the voltage
at the end of the line, or the hub, prior
to distribution of fixtures. I try to install
single runs, of more than 100 feet, with 10‑gauge
wire then reduce the wire to 12‑gauge
for the last 20 feet of each fixture.
Other
problems with lighting systems that may cause
dimness are shorts in the wire or connections.
This can be difficult to find, but generally
they occur at the connection points. Finally,
there are the old‑style transformers.
They can be large, 600 watts, but the wattage
is divided into dual, 300‑watt transformers.
Sometimes this can be deceiving, especially
when you install long runs with one single‑wire
pair.
Typically,
high‑end light fixtures will contain
brighter, higher‑watt halogen bulbs
than low‑end
products.
·
High‑end
averages
·
Path lights,
20‑35 watts
·
Up lights or spots,
35‑75 watts
·
Low‑end averages
·
Path lights, 11‑18 watts
·
Up lights or spots, 20 watts