The signature cocktails feature an interesting line of specialty margaritas celebrating fine tequilas with unusual accents like agave syrup and blood orange. The real showpieces, though, are a couple of fresh watermelon concoctions: the Watermelon Mojito (fresh mint, Bacardi Limon, lime and fresh squeezed watermelon juice)  and the Sun Burnt Cocktail (vodka, lime, fresh watermelon juice and a mint‑infused sugared rum).

For openers, the more the merrier is the approach to salsas. Tri‑colored tortilla chips are matched with a trio of idiosyncratic dips: roasted tomato, pureed tomatillo‑avocado, and a delightful grilled corn, cilantro salsa. The ceviche receives a stellar presentation in a glass cone suspended in arced steel. And popping a cap in these warmer‑uppers are the “shooters,” Spotted Donkey’s ingenious variation on the ubiquitous jalapeno popper served in a shot glass of cilantro buttermilk dressing on a banana leaf doily.

But it is in his entrees that Chef DiStefano puts the nouvelle in New Mexican and gives this dynamic cuisine its four spotted legs. Adding a bit of unexpected this and a little adventurous that to familiar entrees, he lets the plate delight the palate.

It’s no mean feat to cook a 2‑inch‑thick pork chop perfectly, but DiStefano is up to the task and mounts it on a bed of garlic smashed potatoes in a sea of piquant red pepper coulis. Plenty of thin‑sliced grilled vegetables–eggplant, summer squash, zucchini –provide nice accompaniment, accentuated by a couple asparagus spears. It’s a nice looking plate that tastes even better.

Some other American favorites that get a Southwest kick in the pants are the mac and cheese and the meatloaf. Green chile, applewood smoked bacon and white Mexican cheeses put a flavorful spin on the fusilli and a bold chorizo gravy dresses up the meatloaf medallions to the nines.

More traditional Mexican offerings–fajitas, chimichangas, tacos and enchiladas–get their due as well, and the real champion from south of the border is the chalupa. Spotted Donkey eschews the heavier fry bread for a lighter, phylloesque pastry shell, served in threes and stuffed with pulled pork, chile rojo, chile verde, guacamole and a cool salad/salsa topping.

The “chop” salad is created table‑side with a theatrical flourish, the guacamole is fresh (and tastes it), and there’s flat iron steak and chipotle chicken sandwiches and a “Big Ol’ Jack Ass” hamburger for diners who prefer their meal between bakery.

It’s no surprise that the desserts, like everything else at Spotted Donkey, are marked by their own distinct touches–whether it’s the candied limes and Cointreau crowning the mango‑margarita sundae or prickly pear syrup giving breadth to the blood orange pot de crème. You can sit back and take it easy with the sweet things: the crisp cinnamon crust on the fried banana wraps cracks a smile for you and the apple dumplings take you right back to grandma’s kitchen.

As if all that weren’t enough, the service, from door to table to door, is exemplary, knowledgeable and above all, fun. Which is just like DiStefano says, the Spotted Donkey Cantina is indeed a “fun, lively and hip” place to get a little bit of Southwest out of the ordinary. And it’s not good practice to argue with the chef.

Spotted Donkey Cantina is located upstairs at el Pedregal, 34505 N. Scottsdale Rd. in Scottsdale. Hours: lunch daily at 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; at‑bar menu 3 to 5 p.m.; dinner 5 p.m. to close. For information and reservations, call (480) 488‑3358. Visit www.spotteddonkeycantina.com.