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Jason Stone photo
Our travelers, Jason Stone and Jennifer Simon, braved the biting England wind to view the Tower of London and other historic sights.
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Jason Stone photo
Having escaped the scourge of two world wars, Amsterdam’s canals and gingerbread‑house‑like architecture make this Dutch city one of Europe’s best‑preserved treasures.
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European Vacation – and I’m not Chevy Chase
Tour of five countries whets appetite for more travel
by Jason Stone

Let’s be clear about one thing right off the bat: French is not  spoken in my household. But it was hard for my girlfriend and I to deny that whatever was being said over the P.A. system as we walked across Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris was not good when it included our names.

“Les passagers Jennifer Simon et la pierre de Jason font rapport s’il vous plaît à votre porte. L'avion part,” we heard coming from the loudspeaker. Loosely, that means in English: “You’d better get to the gate immediately, or you’ll be seeing more of France than you really wanted to.”

Our casual ride up an escalator to the gate all of a sudden took on more urgency. Did we both just hear somebody say our names ...  in French? After all, we had been wasting time in the airport after the woman who checked us in, an actual flight attendant for the airline, and the TV information screen told us our plane from Paris to London was going to be 75 minutes delayed.

Ah, but as they say in French, “C’est la vie.”

When we turned the corner to our gate, we had expected a room full of waiting passengers. Instead, all we saw were airline personnel and security officers frantically motioning to us.

In a land where we could read no signs, understand no spoken word, and apparently not tell time correctly, we nearly missed our plane, which is no big deal when it happens in Sacramento. But missing one in France is (pardon my French) “le stupid.”

Fortunately, we got on the plane and continued our European adventure. And, really, outside of that minor scare, traveling to Europe is easier, less expensive and more exciting than I ever imagined. Thanks to the good fortune of timing, cheap holiday fares, understanding employers and a bad bug of “travel‑itis,” Jennifer and I had the opportunity in 2006 to make not one, but two trips to Europe.

Between those journeys, we visited (in addition to Paris) Venice, Rome, Dublin, London and Amsterdam, as well as my father’s half of the family in Weymouth, England.

I must confess, however, that prior to last year, I never thought I’d ever make an overseas trip. I would venture to say half of the people reading this have been outside of the U.S., so it’s not even a big deal to them. But I never thought I would one day count myself in that group. And even if I did one day go to Europe, I used to think, it would only be to Weymouth to see my family. Surely, I would never see the Eiffel Tower or the Roman Colosseum.

 

That all changed this year when in one 12‑month period I experienced Big Ben, the beautiful canals of Venice and Amsterdam, the ancient ruins of Rome, the Louvre in Paris, and lest we forget, the Guinness brewery in Dublin.

And despite seeing all these monumental things, it’s amazing how much American culture there is just about everywhere you go in Europe. I always wondered back in the ‘80s how Michael Jackson could be so big everywhere in the world. Now I know.

Not that it’s necessarily a bad thing. It’s kind of something to be proud of. It makes you feel good about your country, especially in a time when the rest of the world doesn’t think you’re so hot politically.

However, politics is a funny thing. On the first trip at this time last year, people were asking us how, in the name of Abraham Lincoln, did we reelect President Bush. In fact, one Irishman with a beer in one hand and whiskey in another leaned over to me during a New Year’s Eve celebration and asked, “What is wrong with you Americans?”

On the return trip, however, things had changed greatly. Democrats retook control of the House and Senate, and the reverberations of that election were felt in Europe–maybe even more than in the U.S. In fact, one British man in his twenties, who I found out does clerical work for his government, stopped me in a car on “The Tube,” and thanked me of all people. You know, because I had a lot to do with how the election turned out or something.

“You even elected the first socialist ever in the States,” he said, causing me to wonder how he knew that. Americans don’t even know that for crying out loud!

But that’s the thing: There is just a whole different vibe in Europe–a vibe I greatly enjoyed.

I could easily see myself living in any of the cities we visited, especially Amsterdam and London. I’m sure I would miss home, but those places were certainly more hospitable than expected.

For fun, I made a list of the best, worst and weird of our two trips to Europe. If you’ve already been, you know what I’m talking about. If you haven’t, take my advice: Go in the winter to avoid the crowds, save major money on plane fares and hotels, and take in the winter ambience that we certainly don’t get in the Valley.

And, also, don’t listen to anybody in Paris airports–especially people who know what they’re talking about.

Top Cities

·                      Amsterdam – My grandmother was a world traveler who saw just about everything. After she died, my mom told me that her favorite place to visit was Amsterdam. I found that strange considering all the places she’s been. But now that I’ve been there twice, I can definitely understand. The beauty is understated and the canals are amazing. Unlike Venice (see below), you can get around Amsterdam easily. And the place is super liberal, just as I like it.


·                      Venice – I can’t imagine there is another city quite like this one. You have to take a boat or gondola to get anywhere. And some of the alleyways are so narrow, you can feel both sides of the buildings if you stretch your arms out to the side. The architecture alone would make this place amazing.

·                      London – I was unaware that outside of a few pockets of time here and there, London was never really considered a cool city. It must be in one of those pockets right now, because I find the place really great, despite the high expense of just about everything.

Best Trip Advice

·                      Don’t drink the soda. Normally people tell you not to drink the water when going to a foreign country. But when in London, do not buy soda. Because of the poor conversion rate and the lack of available cola, I actually shelled out more than $6 for a 12‑ounce can of Pepsi– the equivalent of two cases at Safeway. Needless to say, I ended up sticking with water for all my meals the rest of the way.

·                      Walk, don’t ride. If you really want to see these cities, get on your walking shoes and see it the right way. Buses, trams and trains are good for the lazy ones, but we must have walked 50 miles in all these cities and saw things we probably wouldn’t have seen otherwise. With a good map and a comfy pair of shoes (which I unfortunately did not have–see next piece of advice), you can breathe in the international air and conduct your own personal tour. If you must take a bus, don’t shy away from the official city sightseeing busses that let you get on and off wherever you want. It’s like having your own personal taxi and is informative on city history as well.

·                      Did I say bring comfortable shoes? I decided to break out a pair of hiking boots that I hadn’t worn in a year, and my feet decided to punish me for it. I never knew ankle bones could be so sore. The good part of it all: the nightly foot rubs in the hotel. Feels good just thinking about it.

Most Memorable Moments

·                      The first sight of the Roman Colosseum. Our hotel in Rome was just four blocks north of the ancient Roman Colosseum, but buildings were blocking the view as we walked down the main street to it. When we reached the intersection to turn toward it, we both looked left and saw it at the end of the street. It looked just as expected, but still caused a moment of “Wow, there it is!”

·                      New Year’s Eve in Dublin. When you’re celebrating with an Irish family, you will never have a drink that gets below half‑full. We visited a family that Jennifer is loosely related to, although nobody at the party knew exactly how. All the same, at midnight everybody huddled with arms around each other to ring in the new year with Irish songs. Turned out to be one of my most memorable New Year’s Eves.

·                      Walking through the Anne Frank House. Nothing about the history of the Holocaust is easy to experience. But walking through the famous “Secret Annex” where Frank and seven others hid from the Nazis during World War II really brought the tragedy to life. I never read her diary in high school, but I crammed an entire weekend of learning about what I now consider a heroic figure. I never understood why young girls always said they wanted to be like Anne Frank ... until now.

Funniest Moments

·                      Countdown in Belfast. While in Dublin for New Year’s Eve, Jennifer’s cousin (um, we think), Nile, pointed to a live TV remote from Belfast, where revelers were counting down the minutes until midnight. He then uttered the line of the year: “Normally when you see a clock ticking down in Belfast, you run the (expletive) away from there as fast you can!” That’s a joke only the Irish can make.

·                      Nearly being trampled boarding planes. RyanAir in Europe is a no‑frills airline, which doesn’t assign seating, similar to Southwest Airlines in the U.S. But because the planes are boarded from the tarmac, passengers feel like they need to treat it like the running of the bulls in Spain. I got pushed in the back by one woman who had to be in her 60s. She sprinted by me like one of those machines in “War of the Worlds” was chasing her.

Biggest Disappointments

·                      Sean Hannity follows me everywhere. Thanks to Sky TV, Europe’s satellite service, a feed of Fox’s “Hannity & Colmes” was on our TV in Venice. All I was hoping for was a week’s break from the seemingly ubiquitous conservative TV and radio pundit. No such luck.

·                      Items in Amsterdam coffee shops stay in Amsterdam coffee shops. You mean I can’t take that stuff home? Darn!

 
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